We're new to the fish world .... I purchased a 10 gal tank for my son for X-mas, bought 4 different fish and have lost/replaced 3 already. Pet Supplies PLus tested the water & said the nitrate levels were reallyhigh. I purchased "Cycle" for fish loss but it hasnt helped. I did a 20% water change, doubled up on the cycle but my latest water test was "deadly" .... they said I have "new tank syndrome" WHAT THE HECK IS THAT ?! The more I read, the more confused I get...there are so many products available - I want to get this right because we love it & want to get a large aquarium but my son is just devastated waking up to all these dead fish !

Hi yorkie...

First off.. toss the cycle product. This stuff claims that it adds beneficial bacteria to help in the cycle process. The beneficial bacteria needed for a tank is AEROBIC bacteria, meaning it needs O2 to survive. The bottle of cycle is closed and unable to get any O2, which means any bacteria that was put into the bottle alive has died off. The only bacteria that could survive is ANAEROBIC bacteria, but this bacteria produces toxins which are harmful, and in many cases fatal to fish. The cycle product doesn't have either in the bottle, it is basically just dead junk, which does nothing for your cycle but add junk.

New Tank Syndrome, which is indicated by cloudy and/or musty smelling water is when a bacterial bloom takes over the tank. This is caused by an excessive amount of ammonia and wastes being introduced into a tank that doesn't have enough beneficial bacteria built up to eat the stuff. In an established tank, fish will produce ammonia (poop, and excreted thru gills). This ammonia is eaten by one form of bacteria which excretes nitrItes. A second form will then eat these nitrItes and excrete nitrAtes. Ammonia and nitrItes are toxic to fish in levels above .05. NitrAtes are toxic to fish in much higher levels (above 60ppm), but normally exist in a well maintained tank at levels from 0-20ppm. NitrAtes can only be removed from the tank by water changes. Depending on the bio-load (number of fish, type of fish, food fed) and how big the tank is will determine how often and how much water you should change. In a 10G, 1 gallon every week to two weeks is acceptable (again depending on fish and your filtration).

The best thing to do for your tank now is to do one big water change (about 2-3 gallons) right now. Then each day, do a small water change (for your tank, about 1/2 gallon) until your tank begins to read nitrAtes. (if you have not bought some, you need to get test kits. There are Master kits available which will have all the basic test kits you'll need) The only chemical you should be adding into your tank is a Tap Water Conditioner. Most city water has chlorine and/or chloramines added to keep bacterial blooms down. Chloramines are a bonded form of chlorine which is designed to not evaporate form the water. Chlorine is easily evaporated when water is simply agitated. Tap Water conditioners also help to de toxify heavy metals, such as mercury and copper in the water. The right tap water conditioner should only do these two things.

I would also suggest that you don't purchase anymore fish until your tank has finished going through the cycle process. The cycle process is done when your tank doesn't read ammonia or nitrItes but does read nitrAtes.

Don't worry, your doing the right thing by searching for help. Many lfs are simply in business to make a buck and will sell any fish and any product to anyone. Most of the commercially available products for fish are all but useless, and IMO a waste of money.

I do have a few questions though..

1. Do you have filtration on the tank, and what is it? (hang on back, undergravel..)

2. What kind of fish did/do you have in the tank? I would say 1/2 fo the fish available at most lfs are unable to live in a 10G because they get too big for the tank as adults.

I hope I was able to help you out.. if you have anymore q's or problems or are confused on something... let us know!

balaluvr: I wanted to say thank you for the first explanation of why Cycle isn't worth buying. I've heard it mentioned here and there, but I've not yet heard a good reason why, besides "just my opinion".

There are collies in my house. We don't use the "F" word unless we feel like watching the cats get trampled on the way to the door.

What does this mean? I'm confused! Thanks!

Balaluvr - thanks SO much ! In answer to your ?'s...

* The tank has a filter on top as well as a "Bio-Wheel" .. no underground filter

* The 3 original fish bought are still alive ... I don't remember what they're called but the store person said they stay small & are appropriate for this size tank. One looks like a goldfish but isnt, the other is almost translucent & I think one is a beta.

Actually, the water doesnt smell at all & is clear. I've gone through a whole bottle of Cycle & it didnt make a difference.

I'm going to follow your instructions & see what happens ....

Oh, yes, I do use the chlorine drops.

OK, I feel really stupid, but have to ask , what's an "If" ? :confused:

f word---- "food"

lfs, local fish store.

When I started up my tank I had trouble getting it suited for fish, so my fish store that I went to (which was a very small local store, not a chain) took their over the back filter's sponge and squeezed it in a bag, it gave my tank A LOT of the bacteria it needed to get going and then it didn't take as long. I've found small local stores usually know more and don't want to sell you a fish if it's just going to die. So I shop local small stores now.

Sorry it took me so long to reply... I actually caught the question a while back and then had to run off and forgot to respond.

The F word is Frisbee. If we even say it in passing, the dogs go insane. It's like an old western town when the gunslingers go at it: The cats run for cover, scrambling down the hallway to dive into the cat flap. The swinging flap is still moving when the dogs pound down the hallway and batter the front door hysterically to get out side and play.

The mere thought of playing frisbee far outweighs any other thing: food, people, treats... There is only frisbee.

And some traumatized cats. :D

[medic13]

this is the cycle and thats why there still high
A Typical Break-In Cycle

Day 1

The newly-added fish (tank will not begin cycle until fish or some
other source of ammonia is added some good ones are zebra danio's ) have not yet produced any
measurable amount of ammonia. All readings should be near zero.

DAY 2-4

Ammonia level rises rapidly to near-dangerous; break-in fish may
show some signs of discomfort, such as rapid breathing, poor feeding
and darting about. First stage bacteria are beginning to become
established, but their numbers are low at this point.

DAY 5-6


Ammonia level reaches its peak and begins to decline as first stage
bacteria begin to convert it into NITRITE . Nitrite levels begin to
rise. Weaker fish may succumb to ammonia poisoning; a 25% water
change will dilute ammonia and reduce stress.

Day 8-10

First stage bacteria are well established and are processing
ammonia as fast as the fish are producing it. Ammonia level returns to zero
and Nitrites climb rapidly. Fish may perk up due to temporary
reprieve from the stressful conditions.

Day 12-15


Nitrite levels reach their peak. weaker Fish may again show some signs of
distress. Small water changes (up to 25%) can help protect break-in
fish without significantly prolonging cycling time.

Day22-25

Nitrite levels continue to be elevated for several weeks as the
second stage bacteria begin turning nitrite into nitrate.

Day 26-28


Second stage bacteria multiply rapidly and begin to catch up with
built up nitrite. Nitrite levels drop rapidly and nitrate level
becomes detectable.

Day 30-40

Both first and second stage bacteria are now well established and
can keep up with the Ammonia output of the fish, turning it first
into nitrite and then immediately into nitrate. Tank is now "cycled"
and ready for additional livestock.
but remember to test the following before adding new fish PH, Ammonia, nitite, nitrate,
these are the minimum that should be check some added levels are how soft water is
remember when placing fish let them get used to the water temps ect
also it is recomended that all fish be quarantine before adding them to other fish.
They need to be watch for abnormal behavior , ich, fungus ect

This article canot be copied with out the permission of the aurther
Copyright © 2002
joe kamer

[SHUEZQ]

Water changes are to fish what the rosary is to the Catholic church--if you're not using it, you're not practicing "good faith." I have discovered, however, that IN ADDITION TO WATER CHANGES a Nitrazorb "pillow" will draw out excess nitrites and nitrates--especially in a small tank where a thorough vacuuming seems to take too much water out.